Just when New York Fashion Week fatigue had begun to set in, Diotima’s show felt like a jolt of fresh air. Rachel Scott wove art and identity into a collection that balanced sculptural tailoring with intricate knit and crochet work, resulting in garments that felt both intimate and quietly powerful. In my opinion, it was her strongest collection for the brand to date, reaffirming her as one of fashion’s most compelling storytellers.—Naomi Elizee
Colleen Allen is always a NYFW highlight, and her Louise Bourgeois-inspired collection was no exception. In addition to the lush, cocoon-like wraps and the delicate, intentionally tattered lace dresses, Allen introduced her first-ever accessory: a bustle bag, which can be held or tied around the waist. I’ll take one of everything, please.—Hannah Jackson
