During a recent conversation with veteran Spanish makeup artist Natalia Belda, I realized I had it all wrong about a certain beauty rule: that brown eyeliner subtracts years and softens features. Without dismissing brown—or the eye-brightening theories surrounding it—Belda offered another, more nuanced approach to choosing an eye pencil shade that neutralizes dark circles and “makes the eyes look more rested, whether you’re 23, 43, or in your 70s.” Her focus is on reddish tones, which have been trending on 2026 runways and at beauty counters.
Before promising miracles, Belda stresses that the key lies in choosing the right version of red, taking into account skin type, undertone, eye color, and the nature of your dark circles. “As a general rule,” she explains, “when a shade incorporates reddish pigments, it tends to be very flattering on the eye and softer than black or brown, which can harden features—especially as we age.” While these tones don’t literally rejuvenate, she notes that “they refresh the eyes, help neutralize under-eye darkness, and soften a tired look.” That is, of course, if you choose well.
Choosing the right shade
When it comes to which red to choose, not all versions work for disguising dark circles. Belda warns that “very bright or true reds can exaggerate signs of fatigue or eye redness and may even make pink-toned dark circles more noticeable.”
Instead, she recommends more subdued variations where red is tempered with brown—think more burgundy than tomato. “Well-selected shades can bring more light to the eye area and enhance eye color,” she says.
Belda also shares a universal eye-makeup tip: “Regardless of the liner shade, first neutralize the eyelid with a small amount of concealer applied with a proper brush, then gently blend it out using soft taps of the fingers for a seamless finish.”
The conversation naturally extended to the cheeks, given the current wave of red and burgundy blushes currently entering the market. Belda says their success depends on their intensity, but in general, they can be widely flattering and give most complexions a healthy look. “They can be a refreshing and a modern alternative to classic pink tones,” she notes.
