Is Fashion Getting Political Again?

As things continue to heat up, and businesses strike and celebrities speak out, bigger brands and conglomerates are left in a tougher spot than they may have anticipated, as consumers assess whether they align with their own views and values. One can’t help but think back to 2020 — the last time there was a cross-industry general strike in the United States — when brands, large and small, spoke out about racism in the US. Nike took a stance with its “For Once, Don’t Do It” ad, and designers including Alessandro Michele (then at Gucci) and Marc Jacobs showed solidarity for the Black Lives Matter campaign on their personal accounts.

Since then, though, brands have gone relatively quiet. It’s rarer to see fashion brands speak out about political issues these days — especially those backed by conglomerates. Still, 71% of consumers say a brand ‘must take a political position’, according to research from Edelman. When a brand doesn’t communicate its actions on social issues, 51% of Edelman survey respondents said they ‘take this to mean the brand is doing nothing or hiding something’.

This is especially true at this moment. Customers were receptive to Mr Larkin’s Friday closure, says designer and founder Casey Larkin Blond, which somewhat surprised her, having had negative commentary in response to political content in the past. “I’ve always had people write, ‘why don’t you stick to fashion?’ and things like that…even on things that are not even very radical. But now, nothing,” she says. “I feel like people are really paying attention.”

Still, speaking out can be risky, says Sam Cummins, co-host of fashion and culture podcast Nymphet Alumni. “Drawing attention to a brand’s moral values is tricky, since it’s very common for brands, especially large ones, to have some dirty laundry,” she says. “Consumers are often suspicious of brand solidarity.”

It’s even less straightforward than it was six years ago. As conservatism retains a stronghold in the cultural sphere, brands risk alienating large — and vocal — consumer segments should they take a strong and definitive stance in the other direction. Most notably, fashion companies are operating in an environment where they fear repercussions should they espouse sentiments that don’t align with those in power. Yet when it comes to human rights, does there come a point when brands must speak up?

The onus

Fashion is a capitalist industry, and large brands with big client bases spanning the political spectrum have more to lose if they were to take a stance on a political issue. Smaller and independent businesses are more flexible, Arnell says. “They can make decisions faster in order to capitalize on the moment at hand. They have the autonomy to align their brand with the values of their audience — or desired audience,” she says. The big multi-national luxury brands, on the other hand, are more cautious by virtue of their makeup. “They have board issues and operational issues and the focus on cultural moments will be through the lens of managing risk.”