On his recent pilgrimage to India, Bibhu Mohapatra became acquainted with the Brahmavadinī, female sages whose hymns still live in the Vedas. “They’re equally empowered, balanced female sages that existed in a time when it was male dominated,” the designer said backstage at his fall 2026 show.
In seasons past, Mohapatra has designed with certain muses in mind. This season, he tried to move away from such direct references. “It was important for me to push this collection in a direction where it’s not literally driven by a specific beautiful object,” he said. “It’s really about the equality and power imbalance. And it was challenging and it pushed me.”
Mohapatra conveyed his emphasis on women’s power through his tailoring—a notable departure from his emphasis on drapery and ultra-feminine silhouettes. (Fear not: His design signatures were still prominently featured in the collection.) “I think the power rests in the shoulders,” he said, gesturing to sharp skirt suits in gold jacquard and vegan leather alike. Elsewhere, a white V-neck dress with a jutting shoulder, nipped-in waist, and tulip skirt struck a nice balance. Silhouette aside, Mohapatra referenced the Brahmavadinī through his palette. “The color story comes from the monasteries and the temples,” he said: saffron, claret, and ivory.
Occasionwear is Mohaptra’s bread and butter. While there were still plenty of beaded, feathered, and sequined gowns, he was thinking about how to make his eveningwear more versatile. “I wanted to present clothes that can be put together, but also that she can mix it up with denim,” he said, motioning to some of the embellished structured tops. They were worn on the runway with slim skirts with petal waists, which in turn could be dressed down with a T-shirt.
Mohapatra listens keenly to feedback from buyers and prospective shoppers, often waking up at 4 a.m. to read Shopify feedback. This season, he did an impressive job of listening to his customers while also gently nudging them toward new ideas.
