Peter Copping’s first two shows for Lanvin have included women’s and men’s looks. For fall 2026, he opted to present the men’s collection on its own in the Lanvin headquarters. Copping is new to menswear, having spent his career before landing at this heritage house focused on women’s clothes, and this format provided him with the opportunity to show the progress he’s made. Plus, there was a nice bit of symmetry at work. Jeanne Lanvin, having established herself first as a milliner in the late 19th century and then as a dressmaker around 1910, launched her own men’s offering 100 years ago, in 1926.
Since arriving here, Copping has made a point of starting with Jeanne Lanvin herself and the remarkable archives the brand has maintained. Displayed in glass vitrines today were her original scrapbooks, which she bound with richly woven fabrics sourced on trips to Venice and other far-flung locations. “It’s quite amazing to have all these pieces to pull from,” Copping said. “She was really an open-minded woman; this was the 1920s, and travel was quite complicated then.”
Naturally, the textiles reappeared in modernized versions on the racks. A richly textured material that Lanvin acquired at Venice’s Bevilacqua, which has been producing fabric for upwards of 500 years, inspired an update from the very same weaving workshop in a fresh, monochrome colorway that Copping used for a jean jacket and jeans. Other striking pieces included the leopard spotted flocked velvet pants in a vivid shade of absinthe and tuxedo pants in a Fortuny pleated fabric. Elsewhere the interest came from embroideries: the ‘bibs’ of evening shirts were embellished with graphic paillettes and beads.
What most appealed about this offering was its laid-back ease. These weren’t everyman clothes by any stretch of the imagination, but they had an everyday sensibility (see the striped ribbed pullover sweaters, in particular) that Copping hasn’t yet explored on the Lanvin runways. A pair of striking gowns from his debut a year ago appeared on the awards show circuit recently, including on Chloe Zhao, who is Oscar-nominated for Hamnet. There’s no doubt that Copping knows his way around a special occasion dress, but we’re eager to see him bring more of this collection’s I-could-wear-sneakers-with-that cool to his women’s come March. A pair of coats modeled by a woman in this lookbook, one in a teddy-ish alpaca and another in an ultra-light, wet-look nylon, offered a preview.
