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Now based in Madrid, Alejandro Gómez Palomo is now on his 10th year in business and his third coed collection. He titled the new lineup Limbo, in reference to the uncertain state of the world. Fashion, for him, is almost an act of survival. “I’m finding myself getting really dressed up for no reason just to go to work every morning. And I think that’s the impact that fashion can have on us these days.”
His customers put in the effort; they like things luxe, lavish, and louche rather than grungy and devil-may-care. That comes through in the ’80sish structure in this collection, starting with a bold, round shouldered trench and sculpted waists on pieces like a crisp suspended peplum on a gray pin-stripe suit jacket and the saucer-like extension on a fringed lampshade dress. Less extra, and perhaps more effective, were a woven checkerboard knit and a snatched waist sleeveless column with a origami-like foldover column that let the body in the garment create the drama.
Women’s peplums found their counterpart in men’s cummerbunds. Overall, Palomo’s menswear options were softer and silkily seductive. There was more of a connection to the body. If we define limbo broadly as an in-between state, then Palomo would do well to linger a while on looks 21 and 24 where his-and-her garments are swapped. She looks more relaxed, he looks sculptural. It’s a win-win situation.
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