Occupational hazard, personal obsession: I watch every move my hairstylist makes when she’s at the shampoo sink. It serves me well. Even after years of writing about hair, I still pick up new techniques. That’s exactly what happened recently at Salon YÖY, during their signature Let It Bloom protocol, which uses products from the Japanese-inspired brand Ki.Sui. Mid-wash, the stylist told me to leave the shampoo on for three minutes during the second cleanse.
Three whole minutes? I was surprised. Processing time is usually reserved for conditioner or treatment masks, not shampoo. But the explanation from the Ki.Sui experts was convincing enough to turn this into a once-a-week habit (any more often could dry out the scalp and hair).
“It is better to let the shampoo sit when washing at home, especially if you are going to apply a mask or treatment afterward,” the experts at Ki.Sui confirmed. “Shampoo not only cleanses, it also helps detoxify the scalp and hair fiber, removing traces of silicones, residue, and product build-up. It also encourages a slight opening of the cuticle, allowing the mask or subsequent treatment to penetrate better and work more effectively.”
How to shampoo right
A longer leave-on once a week might feel like an advanced move, but according to the Ki.Sui experts, shampooing is already the step where most people go wrong. Here’s what they say we should be doing:
1. Focus on the scalp
Shampoo should be applied primarily to the scalp, not directly to mid-lengths and ends.
2. Massage gently
“The massage should be gentle, without harsh rubbing or tangling,” say the Ki.Sui experts. “Work the scalp with conscious, respectful movements.”
3. Use lather, not friction
Mid-lengths and ends still need cleansing, but indirectly. Let the foam travel downward, following the natural direction of the hair to protect the cuticle. A good wash should not be aggressive. Caring for the cuticle from the very first step is key to achieving flexible, lightweight hair with movement.
Don’t make these hair-washing mistakes
Shampoo may be the star, but missteps often happen after as well. “Leaving product residue makes the hair stiff and heavy,” warn the Ki.Sui experts, emphasizing the importance of thorough rinsing. They also point to common issues like superficial washing that leaves buildup behind, cutting mask processing times short, and skipping heat protectant before drying.
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